America's Failed Frontier

It's time for us to acknowledge one of America's greatest mistakes, a 140-year-old scheme that has failed at a cost of trillions of dollars, countless lives and immeasurable heartbreak: the settlement of the Great Plains.

The plains, which have overtaken places like Appalachia to become by far the poorest part of the country, represent a monumental failure in American history. To understand more I came here to Loup County, officially the poorest county in the United States, with a per capita income of $6,600 (New York County, or Manhattan, is the nation's richest, at $90,900).

In fairness, Loup doesn't look poor, and it's so rich in warmth, community spirit and old-fashioned friendliness that it's just about impossible for a stranger to pay for a meal here. The tiny school, the only one in the county, has student lockers with no locks; and outside, students' cars are not only unlocked, but the keys are left in the ignition.

Yet Stewart Switzer, a 17-year-old senior, says that if he could go back in a time capsule and talk to his great-great-grandpa when he was settling here a century ago, his message would be: Don't stop here. Keep on going.

It might have been sage advice. Loup County's population peaked at 2,188 in 1910, but now it's down to 600. It lost its only grocery store in August, and with people fleeing, an average house in Taylor, the county seat (population 180), goes for just $6,000.

As my colleague Timothy Egan noted in a brilliant article about the Great Plains in The Times last year, more than 60 percent of the counties in the region lost population in the last decade. In North Dakota, 47 of 53 counties lost population, and at this rate it'll eventually have to merge again with South Dakota to create a single state of Dakota.

This vast region in the middle of America, more than five times the size of California, now meets the 19th-century definition of frontier, with six or fewer people per square mile. Instead of the frontier closing, as Frederick Jackson Turner declared a century ago, it is expanding, and we may look back on large-scale settlement of the Plains as a fluke, a temporary domination now receding again.